March 16, 2016 - It's pouring in Santarem. Not a nice soft day, but a downpour! One look and we all opted out of the Meeting of the River Tour and Eco Maica Lake and Piranah fishing ... all but John. All I could picture was four hours of wet soggy and with the rain, the animals who are really quite clever, take cover, so no animal spotting. With no expectation of any bird or animal, I opted for the cool, air-conditioning of the ship and a lovely breakfast. John on the other hand soldiered on - full jungle gear, bug spray, hat and even socks (realize folks in Florida just don't wear socks). Off he went adventuring.
John's Grand Adventure:
The distance from the ship's gangway to the entry ramp into the river boat was just long enough to thoroughly soak my safari pants and sneakers. Luckily, I listened to my wife and wore my hooded rain jacket. That saved my shirt, cap and camera from the pounding rain. I was the first of 42 guests to reach the boat.
The boat's guide, Luca, spoke very decent English and directed me to the best seat in the house: "Front row and to the left side," he instructed. I chose my seat accordingly, one of 50 white plastic chairs lined schoolroom style from bow to stern. Eventually, the remainder of my group arrived and off we went toward the meeting of the waters: the swift muddy brown Amazon abutting the slower moving aquamarine Rio Tapajos.
As we approached the very noticeable differentiation in color of the waters, we began to see the famous pink dolphin twisting and diving in the rivers. It was breathtaking to see although difficult to photograph due to the speed of their movements.
The ship entered the green/blue Tapaios River and the change in scenery was dramatic. The river narrowed and the jungle seemed to close in on both sides. Palms, vines, flowers, and dense greenery from river bank into the rain forest. Luca announced that he would no longer make further announcements on the boat's antique PA system so as not to disturb the birds lining the river. Unfortunately, the rain hampered the bird viewing although we were able to see some beautiful black and yellow species with brilliant orange beaks. Vultures lurked in the trees and did occasional Ibis, heron and snowy egrets. We managed to come across a few sloth in trees and one iguana lazing on a branch over the river bank.
We were one of four river boats moving slowly and silently back and forth looking for an elusive Toucan, monkey or Panther. Drat, they were all elsewhere this day. None to be seen.
We collectively stopped in an area known to contain Piranha. The crew of three passed out handmade wooden drop lines with a small piece of red meat attached to the small hook. Over both sides, fore and aft, went the handheld lines in hopes of snagging one of the infamous "Devil Fish" as the natives call them. We were allotted 45 minutes to fish. After a half hour of dropping bait, re-bating hooks, moving from one side to the other,we had nothing to show for our efforts. Loud cheers from the other boats informed us that fish were being caught by others, but not by us. Just before the deadline arrived so did the Piranha. One after another were being hauled on board by the guests. The hook was carefully removed, with pliers, by a crew member as we all crowded around snapping photos of this mystical fish with the sharp teeth. After the photos were taken, the fish was unceremoniously dropped back into the river to live another day. Although individually, not dangerous to humans, the Piranha can wreck havoc in a group. Just one drop of blood in the water and the fish arrive en masse. Luca mentioned that a large pack of Piranha can reduce a large man to nothing but a skeleton in less than ten minutes! That comment got the attention of all on board.
Our fishing completed for the day, we continued our 45 minute voyage back down the river into the Eco Maica bay and on toward our ship.
As a side point of interest to many, Luca mentioned that Coco Chanel once visited the Rio Tapaios and was introduced to the local Rosewood Tree. Enchanted with the odor of the bark, she took samples back home to Paris and, after much experimentation, she introduced
Chanel No. 5 perfume. The direct result of her meeting with the Rosewood Tree on the Tapaios River.
Meanwhile Back at the Ranch... A lovely morning moving along with my needlework! Oh, and our now traditional Bloody Mary at noon!
John made it back just as I checked the cabin and grabbed all his grubby, damp clothes and hit the launderette lottery! Yay! It's been good a good day all around.
Terry Breen's lecture this afternoon was about "Roosevelt's Amazon". After losing the 1912 election TR was a bit at odds and casting about for something to do with himself. He decided to travel to Brazil for a visit, and when he arrived he was invited to join the expedition to look the headwaters of the "River of Doubt" with General Rondon - a well know Brazilian explorer. The River of Doubt was said to be between the Tapajos and Madeira rivers but had not yet been confirmed or mapped. There are two 12 minute clips of live film that survived from the expedition that are without sound from the Library of Congress. Roosevelt's own words typed in narration are included on the black and white clips making for an amazing historical first hand account. What they endured is beyond belief for today's world.
We have now cruised the Amazon for 16 days. Roosevelt's expeditions took months between 1913-1914, while we escaped the heat and humidity making our way back to our luxurious ship after each excursion they endured the elements for months; there was no bug spray in 1913, no way of protecting oneself from the indigenous creepy-crawlies and slithery-dees while today we have countless aids. They had to carry all food they would consume while we dined sumptuously each evening; and when they encountered rapids, and had to porter around them - (according to Roosevelt, there were times when they could only paddle down the river 20 minutes or so before encountering more rapids or falls) we endured no such hardships.
After months of forging ahead and pushing toward the mouth of this uncharted river, TR fell deathly ill; so ill that he asked his son Kermit to leave him behind to die. It was Malaria. Kermit, of course refused to leave his father, and the group eventually made it back to Manaus. And from there, onto a ship headed for the United States. TR was barely able to sit up during his return to the US; he died in 1919 at the age of 61.
Today there is a tributary that runs between the Tapajos and the Madeira before flowing into the Tapajos. Originally it was named RIO TEDEO, now named RIO ROOSEVELT.
How lucky we were to see and explore even a bit of this very raw, savage and unforgiving part of the world, even if we only scratched the surface. It's a trip I wouldn't have missed for anything, even with it's disappointments there were even more delights to balance the scale.
Tomorrow ST. PATRICK'S DAY!
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